Wednesday, December 02, 2009

Bicycling east of Bangalore

Number two on my list of things I'll miss when I leave Bangalore.

Me in a race near Bangalore

When I first moved to Bangalore, I was too scared to go out on the roads on a bicycle.  By any foreign standard, the drivers here are just incredibly shockingly bad. The statistics don't lie.  Just one: India has more deaths on the highway per mile/km driven than anyone else by a large margin. But Indian drivers are a topic for another post.

I did eventually get a motorcycle (a 1962 Royal Enfield Bullet, again, more on that later) and by riding in the rural areas between Bangalore gradually built up some more courage to tackle the roads.   I had brought all my bicycles to Bangalore but had been too busy with work and a young family life to think about riding much except with my daughter around the neighborhood. 

And then I learned about a group of mountain bikers in the Whitefield area who rode on Sunday mornings. One morning with some trepidation I joined them and I was hooked again.  I say again because I had been riding MTB since 1988, and raced road-bikes in 1980-84. 

East of Whitefield, however, it's a paradise of trails.  You can ride and ride and ride, and never know all the trails. And the scenery changes all the time with the change in seasons and crops. Part of what makes it so easy is that no one out there bothers to fence their land.  And people walk everywhere, so there are lots of footpaths through rural areas.

The villages are spread out about 5km apart on average, so you have lots of opportunities to stop for water and snacks.  There is a river that splits the area, and there are only a couple of places to cross the river.  Typically we leave Whitefield and decide to go either North or South along the river, then cross further east, and either make it into a loop or an out-and-back, depending on time/effort. 

The landscape varies, is mostly flat, but there are some small hills.  In the low & wet areas rice paddies and coconuts dominate. In the higher areas, there are brick-making works, sand pits, and some stone mining operations.  In the middle there are lots of "forests" where wood is grown for firewood and building materials. 


View from the trail between Harohalli and Muthsandra at sunrise

Generally, we are stopped by flat tires at least once in a trip.  The more riders that show up, the higher the likelihood of that.  With tubeless tires (Stan's no-tubes) it happens a lot less frequently.


One of the old swimming holes.  This one was pumped dry recently.

We have discovered places to swim in water wells and quarries and most villages will sell you a mid-morning snack of chai and bananas, if not something more filling like idly if you can stomach the sanitation of rural kitchens.

The Sunday morning ride is the highlight of my week in Bangalore. 

Wednesday, November 25, 2009

Meeting up with celebritwit Shashi Tharoor @shashitharoor

Yeah, I'm a twitterer, a tweeter.  I'm a twit.  I tweet.¹ My friends who don't (yet) tweet or don't understand the whole thing can just deal with it.

I signed up for twitter a while back, checked in from time to time, and didn't find it compelling.  As a result I didn't use twitter for a long time, but then it seemed to reach some sort of critical mass and became interesting to me.  (There are many parallels with Google Wave; Wave most definitely isn't interesting right now.)

Anyway, on twitter I can categorize the people I interact with as a group of Bangaloreans, a group of Sinophiles, some cyclists and a group of infosec-related folks.  These are the ones I "hang" with.

Now take twitter to India.  In India, there is this amazing cult of celebrity.  Moreso than even the US, people here dig their superstars.  Unlike the US, Indians focus their attention.  At any one time, there is really only a handful of true superstars who command the vast majority of the attention. 

Enter Shashi Tharoor.  Look him up in wikipedia if you need to. 

He recently made news for tweeting a joke about riding "cattle class" on an airplane.  When translated into India's dozens of official languages, this side-comment in English took the form of a serious insult to some folks who didn't get the translation just right.  Remember this is a country where the cow is revered and worshiped (by Hindus anyway).

Anyway, Shashi Tharoor is one of India's first famous tweeters.  The fact that he's also in a serious governmental position (minister for external affairs, sort of like the US Secretary of State or the British Foreign Secretary) makes his tweeting quite interesting.  He talks about all the other heads of state he meets, the places he's seen, and sometimes comments on local Indian politics as well.

He agreed recently to a "tweetup" -- essentially a meeting of twitter users. 



I was really pleasantly surprised to find the event
  • well-behaved
  • well-organized
  • comfortable
  • pleasant

It was so motivating to spend about 90 minutes with this "superstar" of Indian politics. It was like a book reading or a Q/A session -- well done.


So "chapeau" to my buddy @dhempe (known to most as Hrish Thota) for the idea and the organization.


1) Side note rant: These words "twitter", "tweet", "tweetup", etc. are so painful for me to type.  It's almost as bad as "u", "ur", and the bane of Indian IT workers "gud" & "wud". I hate SMS slang,
refuse to use it and think that anyone who does use it is a complete
bloody moron.  Really, dear readers, if you use the word "gud" or "wud", the educated "rest of the world" sees you as a complete idiot. Tweet-words, however, somehow have become "normal".

Tuesday, November 10, 2009

Beer in Bangalore revisited 2009

Some time ago, I blogged about the beer situation in Bangalore, which was at that time pitiful.

It's changed quite a bit.  In 2005, your typical Restaurant menu looked like this:

  • Kingfisher 650ml 100rs.

If they listed Fosters on the menu, it was out of stock, guaranteed.

In 2007, you had

  • Kingfisher 650ml 150 rupees
  • Fosters 650ml 160 rupees
  • Haywards Black 650ml 180 rupees

In the year of 2009, you now find:

  • Kingfisher 330ml 150 rupees
  • Fosters 330ml 200 rupees
  • Budweiser 650ml 250 rupees
  • Heineken 330ml 275 rupees
And if you go to a fancy 5-star kind of place, you'll see:

  • Chimay 330ml 350 rupees
So, the selection has gotten a bit broader, but the prices have gone through the roof.  Bottles have gotten smaller too. 

The good news is that if you go to a high-end liquor store here, you'll find more: Chimay, Achel, St. Feuillien, Orval, even Arabier by the Dolle Brouwers!  It's isn't quite the Wildeman, but it's not too bad.  All these are about 210 rupees per bottle. Ridiculously expensive by local standards, but not bad comparing them to the insane prices in pubs in Europe nowadays. (I paid 6.90 euros (about 500 rupees) for a beer last month in Amsterdam.)

Bottom line, I'm not complaining as much as I used to.  ;-)  At least when I'm feeling rich I can get a good beer.  Before it didn't matter how much money you had, you couldn't buy a good beer in India.

Now I relax knowing that there is an Orval waiting in my fridge at home.  It waits for Friday.

Photos courtesy of spo0nman on flickr. and Phil Chambers on Flickr



Sunday, November 08, 2009

Farm fresh Amaranth and other veggies in Bangalore



One of our neighbors owns a small farm about 45km away from here, and they go there on the weekends to keep tabs on it and do some harvesting.

Recently, they have begun sharing their harvest with us, and we are completely delighted with the results.

This weekend, we picked up the following:

1 pumpkin
1kg spinach
.5kg amaranth
eggs
1kg tomatoes
1kg okra
1kg guava (pink and red?)
a bottle of preserved star fruit
a bottle of passionfruit extract

Regarding the amaranth, we asked how to prepare it and they said to fry it in lots of oil until it's crisp. We've had fried spinach in Chinese restaurants here in Bangalore before and it can be very tasty, but we're not into frying things at home. I think it's a bad habit to get into. There is plenty of fried food outside, so why do it at home?

I searched and did not find many recipes for amaranth, but the one that interested us was this Sichuan one. Of course, our kids can't eat spicy Sichuan food, but this was just greens and garlic, so they dug it. We did too. The amaranth cooked down like spinach but retained more firmness, and more flavor. It reminded me a bit of ramps, but I sure hope it doesn't have the same effect as ramps.

Update: No extra "wind" as a result of the amaranth. Good news! If you're ever in West Virginia, however, beware the ramps.

Friday, November 06, 2009

Marathon completed

It's been a couple weeks since I did it, but I thought I'd brag a little bit here.  I finished a marathon.

It was my goal to just finish one before I die.  So about 6 months ago I paid the entry fee for the Amsterdam Marathon.  I had at that moment not been running at all, just cycling once or twice a week.

6 months of pretty serious training, and I did it.  I overtrained in the last 3 weeks (very stupidly) and my knees locked up with IT Band issues.  But, still I finished the entire 42.195km (26 miles). So, for that I'm proud of myself. 



image from Flickr..

Now I have to sign up for another marathon so I can finish one in what I feel is a "respectable" time.

Thursday, October 15, 2009

10 things I will miss when I leave India

Most foreigners like me who live in India love to hate India for one reason or another, but don't mistake the occasional ranting and raving for actual hatred. There are things we like, nee love, about India too.  It's just very easy to forget them.

So, I'd like to capture some of these things here.  I will take me a while to get through the entire list of 10 (in fact I haven't made the list yet) but let's start with this one.

The Andhra Meals

Palak dal, bhindi fry, pickle and rice.
(Courtesy kkalyan on Flickr)


I love a good Andhra style "meals" or "thali".  I haven't found an equivalent to this type of meal in any other society around the world, and if you haven't been to south India you probably don't know what I'm talking about. 

For a fairly small amount of money (20-120 rupees), you get a big plate (that's the thali) with a great variety of dishes in small bowls, and a pile of rice in the middle, and a couple of roti's or papadam on top. There is almost always yogurt (curd), some curries, a couple vegetable dishes, a salad (cucumber/carrot), and a sweet. At the lower end of the cost scale, you might just get rice, dal, and a veg.  In a south Indian version, you'd get more sloppy curries, and maybe some curd rice.  In a Northern one, dryer dishes, some bread, and a typical norther sweet.


A very nice looking Thali, from Jaisalmeer in North India.
(Courtesy of Larsa on Flickr)

The amazing thing is that it's all-you-can-eat. They will keep bringing any of the curries, vegetables, and rice in unlimited quantities until you are lying on the floor screaming "no more" "not another wafer thin mint".

One of the things I really enjoy about the cheap-n-tasty thali is the Indian practice of eating with your hand, without a spoon/knife/fork.  There is something really sensuous (almost in a dirty way) about smashing your curry, dal and vegetables into the rice, making a ball out of it and then shoving it into your mouth. 

For lots more photos, try a Compfight search for thali. 

And in the Bangalore area, "meals" is always plural.  You don't ask for a "meal" but a "meals".




Monday, October 12, 2009

Sewer cycle

Bangalore's sewers, when they exist, are for the most part "open".  See this for an example photo if you don't know what one looks like.  They are channels about a 80cm across and a meter deep that run in front of most buildings along the streets. 

If they are covered, they are covered with removable stones or concrete blocks. These then form the basis for what should be sidewalks, but in practice they are insufficient as such. As sidewalks, they are too uneven, too narrow, and since they are frequently missing stones, you must watch very carefully where you step lest you fall into the sewer.  Sidenote: that's why everyone in India walks in the street and a major reason why 4-lane roads (where they exist) usually have at most 2 passable lanes of traffic going less than 30kmph, but that's for another rant...



Someone enjoying the Open Sewer in Badami. Photo courtesy of OliviƩ

So why have these rough, uneven stones? Why not just cover the sewers entirely with smooth concrete?

First, let's recognize that Bangalore, a town of 6-8 million people depending on who you ask, has no organized solid waste disposal system to speak of.  Second, Bangaloreans by and large have no concept of using a garbage receptacle of any sort.  There are few if any public trash bins, and usually there isn't one within 100 yards of you anyway, so if you did have some trash and you didn't want to throw it on the ground, you'd have to pocket it until you found a canister.  The result: nearly everyone just throws their garbage on the ground.  And then it flies or falls into the sewer.

And if you live on a road with one of the aforementioned sewers, you can speed up this process and just throw your trash directly in the sewer.  Take a close look at all the non-biodegradeable stuff floating in that photo just there.

So this means that about once every 2 years, some unfortunate group of people are employed to clean out the sewers.  Lest you think this involves some high-pressure washing machinery and garbage trucks, recall where we are: India.  This means that people do it.  Why not use machinery?  People don't have to be imported from Germany and they don't break down.  They don't even require maintenance.  You just say "I need 100 workers at 100 rupees a day" and poof, they appear.  If 20 get sick and don't show up on day two, 20 more will appear looking for work.


These unlucky souls stand in the sewers (a couple inches deep with flowing waste in some cases) and dig out the solids, putting them in a big pile on the side of the road. This cleaning is done with their bare hands too, since apparently
shovels and other bronze-age implements are too expensive for this
work. Did I mention that most of these workers have no shoes?  That's right, they are standing barefoot in a river of poop, piss and chemical waste, then digging it out with their hands. 

A big sloppy, stinky pile of waste then appears on the side of the road in front of the restaurants, milk salesmen, butchers, even the florists.  It sits there for a month or so, drying out and blowing around until some other unlucky bunch of people comes along with a truck to haul it all "away".  I have no idea where this mythical "away" place is, but I'm suspecting it is the fields where my vegetables are grown.

And then the entire cycle starts all over again as people continue to throw their garbage in the sewers. As I was going to work this morning, I stopped at a stoplight in front of a small business.  The child working there was sweeping up all the plastic tea-cups, cigarette wrappers, and other trash.  When he finished making a nice pile, he picked it up and threw it into the brand new open sewer in front of his shop.

This is all just another mind-boggling inefficiency of India that I just don't understand.  Another side to "India Shining".

Afternote:
Light on the horizon: Chennai has banned the practice of manually cleaning sewers.  We all know the gap between law and practice in India, but still it's a good first step.